Paper on Nonlinear Wave Evolution with Data-driven Breaking

  • Research Reports

Paper on Nonlinear wave evolution with data-driven breaking by Program-Specific Associate Professor Chabchoub Amin et al. was published in Nature Communications on 29 April 2022.


  • Authors: Eeltink, H. Branger, C. Luneau, Y. He, A. Chabchoub, J. Kasparian, T. S. van den Bremer & T. P. Sapsis
  • Title:Nonlinear wave evolution with data-driven breaking
  • Abstract:Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy input into ocean waves by wind and transferred across the spectrum by nonlinearity. It determines the properties of a sea state and plays a crucial role in ocean-atmosphere interaction, ocean pollution, and rogue waves. Owing to its turbulent nature, wave breaking remains too computationally demanding to solve using direct numerical simulations except in simple, short-duration circumstances. To overcome this challenge, we present a blended machine learning framework in which a physics-based nonlinear evolution model for deep-water, non-breaking waves and a recurrent neural network are combined to predict the evolution of breaking waves. We use wave tank measurements rather than simulations to provide training data and use a long short-term memory neural network to apply a finite-domain correction to the evolution model. Our blended machine learning framework gives excellent predictions of breaking and its effects on wave evolution, including for external data.
  • Published:29 April 2022